![]() I like to pop them out put a nice finish on the aluminum surface then pop them back in and take the prechambers down as close as i can to the aluminum surface without touching it with that wheel. When milling the cutter reacts differently to the harder material and screws up your finish, especially if your auto feeding, when grinding you should be using a different wheel for the aluminum than the steel. I must enjoy the breeze from my zipper being down but have had no problems and had engine with my machined head go 300k and still climbing! Also as for machining with them in, frankly i wouldn't let you near my tools or machines! Iconel or stainless machine differently than aluminum. 0005 or less not flush but slightly protruding. Quote from: BigVWman on October 18, 2011, 09:36:14 am When i say they should protrude slightly i am thinking order of. Here is my hand abrasion setup, a bit crude, but fully functional and calibrated with newspaper to remove natural sag in 3 sheets of plate glass on bench: ![]() Machine minimal, but enough to allow contact round the cylinders, and not as I did as I watched the symetrical abrasion patterns emerging. Much warpage is in the surface, where it has turned to jelly and reset. Leave the manifolds on and tight if possible. Only when released from the block and removed from the intake and exhaust manifold does further shape changing take place. But my own opinion, is that with a failed head gasket, whilst still on the engine the warpage is in the interface and not carried through to the cam carriers. My hand-abraded head is clearly done with skilled arms, Dewarping a head is a complex issue. There can be no better holder of a precup that a purpose built aluminium home. If the tool is knocking them out then job is being rushed. Removing intact precups is just shoddy work skills that are inviting trouble. A head bolt or even stud is not capable of extruding the gasket in the metal regions. How can it seal on the stepped interface for either fiber or metal. Protruding precups are like walking around with your flies undone. Once you have a sense for how you want to do it then post over there and explain what you are planning and you'll get lots of great advice.EDIT for 'only' read often. Id suggest starting over on in the 5.0/5.8 Tech Forum. If I were you I'd go and reasearch and ask this question were you are apt to find a much larger population of 5.0 people. You can use this tool with a drill press. This tool comes with instructions and hardware. They then moved this peice from piston to piston and bolted it in place using the head bolt holes this peice lined up with. VW Engine Case and Cylinder Head Boring and Flycutting Tool, EACH Price: 399.95 VW Engine Case and Cylinder Head Boring and Flycutting Tool, EACH lets you open up the cylinder windows in your case and heads You can also flycut the heads for more compression. To achieve a 9.0:1 compression ratio on a 2056 with 1mm of deck height will require the RS+ or LE200 cylinder heads to be fly-cut deeper to reduce chambers to. One of the best articles I had read a couple of years ago talked about making a custom cutting tool and then cutting a section out of an old cast iron head just wide enough to cover the valves - something like 4" wide. The key is very careful masking and cleanup. ![]() It is not recommended for obvious reasons but absolutely has and can be done. I've seen many people and a few articles that discuss notching the pistons with the engine in the car. HTH a little and let me know if you want to risk cutting the pistons with a die grinder and I'll tell you what to watch out for and how I did it. It seems like it always takes me at least two tries to get the clay to come off right so I can get a good measurement, but make sure you are satisfied with your measurements so you can sleep at night. 030" LESS clearance than you actually have! Use the stock valve springs and clay to check your clearance. I also had an (small) epiphany as I was checking and rechecking clearances after cutting the pistons: The weak spring method leaves about. ![]() This'll be my first attempt on a Ford motor, however. Now before the 'experts' thrash me for this, I've performed this surgery before on two Chevy motors with no issues - no failures, cracks or add'l carbon buildup in valve reliefs. I also was a little worried about screwing up the valve guides on my brand new heads by augering the pilot around in there. I decided I didn't want to spend $300 for one pilot and two cutters - so I cut my own reliefs with a die grinder and a couple of different burs. Isky would not get back to me on the rental option that is supposed to be available. I could only find places to buy the Isky cutting tools and pilot (Summit is one but you can get them cheaper). Cobrastang, did you use the clay method and valve train components you plan to use on the finished motor - or did you use lightweight checking springs and feeler gauges?
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